Tag Archives: Caves

Sabbatical – Texas 2024

We flew into Houston and flew out of El Paso so we drove across all of Texas and saw a bit of New Mexico to visit Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Guadalupe Mountains National Park, and, White Sands National Park. We learned an important lesson: Texas is not very close to Texas, and, a lot of Texans driving lifted trucks seemed to want to drive over us. During our travels through Texas we had four-ish surprises:

– Caves in Texas can be warm and very humid which makes being in the caves quite hot and sweaty.
– During a long day of driving toward Big Bend National Park we needed to eat and picked a highly rated restaurant in the tiny town of Ozona only to find out the “restaurant” was in a house in a neighborhood. Food was 10/10, it was 100% worth the stop.
– Buc-ee’s is amazing. The merchandise, the foods, the size, and, everything else made it absolutely awesome. We visited as many Buc-ee’s as possible. The best pulled pork we had on the trip was from Buc-ee’s hands down.
– The biggest surprise by far was when we visited Big Bend National Park and I quickly realized there were no other signs of humanity other than the trail / road we used to get to where we were – no buildings, no signs, no power poles, no fences, and the big one that is everywhere, no planes or contrails overhead. I don’t know if we have ever experienced anything similar.

It was awesome to see NASA and visit the Gulf of Mexico near Houston. Seeing the Saturn V in person was AMAZING, so cool to see the loudest thing humans have ever created. The Houston area is also the first time everyone was able to visit a Buc-ee’s – an absolutely amazing place to visit with wonderful products. I think we settled on describing Buc-ee’s as the Costco of gas stations, absolutely a 10/10 experience. In the Houston area is where we came across a Tex-Mex place that also made all their own ice cream and horchata which was another wonderful surprise. Even though we have a large latin diaspora in Minnesota it is impossible to get Tex-Mex or anything similar to what we had in Texas.

After Houston we visited San Antonio. I was surprised the shortness of the riverwalk. A person can walk the entire riverwalk in like 30-40 minutes! The riverwalk was pretty. I appreciated the buildings, the water, and lighting. I walked the riverwalk in the evenings and in the early morning. Walking in the early morning was really neat because the lights were still on yet no one was around. The caves outside of San Antonio were beautiful, probably the most beautiful we had visited other than Carlsbad Caverns.

I’ve wanted to visit Big Bend National Park for some time but it’s in the middle of nowhere and takes forever to get to. Only because of something like the sabbatical did it make sense to take the time to visit the park. The park was pretty OK. It was hotter than blazes and the mountains were fairly pretty. Missing signs of humanity was pretty wild. Even in desolate places in the lower 48 and Alaska there were always planes or contrails overhead – pretty much everywhere in the lower 48 and Alaska is a flight path. I think the little part of Texas that is surrounded by Mexico on three sides makes it a bit more to be a flight path since nearby airspace is in a different country. All that said, if I were ever to go back it would probably be in the middle of winter when it was a bit less than 110F out.

After Big Bend National Park we headed toward Carlsbad Caverns National Park. We drove through West Texas oil country and it was surprising. Pop up cities, restaurants / groceries in the middle of nowhere, and oil fields as far as we could see in every direction.

Carlsbad National Caverns is probably one of the more incredible places I’ve ever been in my entire life. Just like Mammoth, we were able to have a self guided tour so we could take our time going through the incredible formations and massive rooms. I don’t think there is anything similar I’ve ever visited in my entire life, it was well worth the visit. Nearby Guadalupe Mountains National Park was interesting. Miriam picked up a random rock that had a fossil and shell imprint – she thought it was sooooo cool.

Before leaving Texas, we decided to add in White Sands National Park since we had enough time the morning before we flew out of El Paso. What a super neat area! It was crazy bright, I couldn’t actually see my screen on my phone because it was so bright out. It was hot. Oddly, we could dig an inch or two down into the sand and the sand was cold. After about 30min playing around in the dunes I noticed Miriam was laid out and Jac said she needed to rest. We decided to leave and it was clear both Miriam and Jac were affected by the heat. We later learned the sand reflects 90% of the heat energy, which explained why the underside of my widebrimmed hat felt so hot, and that the dunes are so dry it is easy to forget that it was like 115F on the dunes.

Overall, we’re glad we went to Texas. The sites were good, the Tex-Mex was amazing, the best BBQ ribs on the trip were found in El Paso, and, Buc-ee’s never disappoints. But, we’re happy we left and we’re happy we significantly shortened our time in Texas. I’m not sure we’d go back since there are other places we can visit that require less driving.

Enjoy the photos!

Chris W.

Sabbatical Upland South – 2024

One of the major reasons why I wanted to bring my family to this region of the USA was so they could experience the warmth and kindness of the people in the area. It’s unlike anything I’ve experienced and is entirely different than the fake-ish “Minnesota Nice”. It is impossible to describe and has to be experienced. I didn’t realize most of interactions with locals would happen in the Louisville KY / southern Indiana / Nashville area when we set out but it’s where the family was able to see and experience the locals. The rest of the areas we visited, like Nashville, the Mammoth Caves National Park area, and, Louisville were a lot of fun and we want to go back.

First, I’ll write about the non-people part of this area.

Louisville is a fun place and well located! Louisville Slugger Museum was fantastic. The sights and smells were identical to all the different furniture factories I’ve visited in the area. It was neat to see all the bats used by all the famous baseball players and I’m sure it would have meant even more if I followed sports or understood baseball. Some of the best BBQ we had was in the Louisville area. Mission BBQ stands out as having some of the best BBQ, and, it’s a chain! We had no idea a chain could make good food! The caves / caverns around Louisville were super neat too, one of the caverns had a boat ride and that was a lot of fun!

We were told there was bad weather coming the morning we left Louisville, even the hotel we were staying in had linemen from the power companies staying in the hotel in anticipation of the need to restore storm damaged power lines. We didn’t think much of it and made our way to Mammoth Caves / Nashville. During the drive we encountered severe, like bad, weather. Trees started being disassembled and blown on the interstate. Fortunately, we were fine and made it to our destination. Nearby folks weren’t so lucky as four people died due to the storm and storm damage. The trend of “bad things happen to the people around us in the areas we visit” has continued :(.

Mammoth Cave National Park was OK. It is giant but it’s dead. There aren’t a whole lot for formations. On the bright side, the tour was self guided so we just wandered around and had a lot of fun! Next to Mammoth Cave was Diamond Cave and that was spectacular and the formations were incredible. We learned about the cavern wars and had a wonderful time in the cavern; 10/10.

Nashville was awesome. We didn’t realize music started so soon in the morning or that Miriam liked listening to live music. It was fun to walk the streets of downtown Nashville and listen to the various bands play, Miriam danced a bit, and she was super excited to see women guitarists and drummers. One of the bars was serving Mellow Mushroom pizza by the slice so I had a chance to share the Mellow Mushroom love with those who hadn’t experienced it! Nashville was also a quirky place. One of the more memorable meals on the entire trip was hot chicken slathered in some chinese five spice sauce served on a boa bun, and, I’m pretty sure Nashville is the only place on the planet where the instructor for a science demonstration at the childrens museum will given an unsolicited guitar outro as all the children leave.

As for the people – they are very kind. Folks who stop to chat seem to be curious and genuine. We went to the Star Valley Strawberry Festival and had an awesome time. I struck up a conversation with some of the organizers and learned a lot about the area. There are lots of children and families in the area so the community invests in family amenities like the largest outdoor children’s playground I’ve ever seen, and, a lot of folks make pretty decent wages in the Louisville area while living out in the sticks. One of the organizers ended up buying me a shirt and we had we all had a great time chatting.

The genuineness is very different than the “Minnesota Nice” which is rather superficial, and, often quite empty. Many folks were curious why Minnesotans would be wandering around their neck of the woods and most folks were happy to share their thoughts and history in the area.

Probably the oddest thing about the area is the shear number of businesses and signs declaring their faith or beliefs. It was wild to see the portapotty company with “In God We Trust” next to their logo. It was also around Nashville where we burned out on BBQ. We had fabulous BBQ throughout the trip but it was time to eat other foods. It turns out, it is possible to eat too much BBQ.

Overall, we loved the Upland South. We’d love to go back!

Enjoy the photos